I feel very honoured to have been asked to describe the 2012 vintage of Clos Mogador as I have followed this wine since the first vintage in 1989 and I still have every vintage available in my Hampshire cellar. One of the reasons for this is that it is, quite simply, a noble wine. Over the years there have understandably been subtle differences between the various vintages but the core of the wine remains pure and incredibly complex with marked “terroir” characteristics. It could only be a Priorat wine and, for me, the supreme Priorat wine.
Since 2007 René has been using less Cabernet Sauvignon and since 2010 some of the wine is brought up in “foudres” from the Allier in France. These factors have influenced the attributes of the 2012 vintage very positively.
The appearance of the wine is in keeping with all that one would expect from a Mogador – moody purple with high viscosity and attractive garnet reflections which invite you to investigate further.
2012 was a hot vintage with yields of 30% less than normal so the nose is concentrated and heady, overlaid with tobacco and ripe cherries. The judicious use of the larger recipients will have stopped the concentration of the wine becoming overpowering – another indication of intelligent wine making.
Palate sensations start with a warmth and smoothness that belies its youth. The fine acidity indicates that it may be ready for drinking at an earlier stage than other vintages. An abundance of earthy red fruits is overlaid with coffee, liquorice and spices all brought into harmony by the subtle, well balanced tannins.
The finish is a natural extension of the mouth feel with smoky, jammy sensations and a warming, heartening texture.
Needless to say, decanting for this wine is a must, as is serving it in a classic glass from a quality company such as Riedel or Speigelau. Such a multi layered, complex wine deserves nothing but the best. Bravo René!
For the first time in our country, Clos Mogador, one of the prestigious wines made by René Barbier in the D.O.Ca. Priorat, was awarded the prestigious qualification of «Vi de Finca».
“Vi de Finca” is an additional qualification to the D.O.Ca. Priorat certification, which already recognizes this wine. Clos Mogador was the first wine to receive this prestigious qualification in the whole of Spain. It certifies that all grapes used to make this wine over at least the last five years have been sourced from the Clos Mogador single vineyard (five years which can be documented and traced), and at the same time is awarded to a wine which has received international acclaim over at least the last ten years.