Of all the great wines which I have enjoyed from the Iberian Peninsula over the last few years, Clos Mogador is without a doubt one of the greatest of the current Spanish wines. 2001 is the best vintage which René Barbier has ever produced. I met René Barbier in 1991 when he visited Peter Abegg’s German restaurants. I realised straight away that his wines were very special. This backlog of some 13 vintages has allowed me to confidently say that 2001 is the best Clos Mogador that I have ever had the pleasure to taste. Clos Mogador 2001 is characterised by black berries and fruit conserved in rum. There is also some liquorice, cigar box, cedar wood and violets. In the mouth the wine is incredibly complex yet balanced and underpinned by a pronounced acidity as well as a lingering richness of aromas. Its alcohol is beautifully integrated in its concentrated and powerful structure. At first sip, the wine still appears to be too young, maybe also too thick and syrupy. The tannins are still very pronounced and need to be kept in check – it is essential that this wine is decanted. In the mouth, the oak flavours slowly give way to the fruit, which gives the wine great balance. This wine needs time. One can already recognise its marvellous concentration as well as its immense potential.
2001
